In 2014 we were very pleased to add this late 1950s Rolex Submariner to Miltons’ special selection. The diver’s model had been evolving quickly since its launch in 1954 and this 5508 version featured the 1530 calibre movement which would then be used in many models for several decades. The 5508 Submariner itself was inevitably destined for a short life and its small winding crown / lack of crown guards would both be addressed in the 5512 of 1959 and the non-chronometer 5513 of 1962. The dial seen here is a Rolex service dial fitted over 20 years ago; the original would have featured gilt (gold colour) text.

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    • In the late 1960s Rolex added a date display to the steel Submariner, with the new model 1680/0. For the first few years the word SUBMARINER was written in red and these models are especially sought after now. Do be careful, as the difference in value has tempted many to try to turn a genuine watch with an all-white text dial into one with the precious red text. Note that this genuine example ( which is in need of a new acrylic glass ) has the 660ft = 200m format of depth rating. An even earlier version with red text and the reverse 200m=660ft depth rating is worth more again.

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    • This well-used Submariner 5513 from the 1960s is especially nice for retaining its original gilt-text dial, rather than having one of the later white-text versions. Note the depth rating, presented in metres before feet on the early examples like this. The 5513 was launched in 1962 and remained in production with little change for 30 years. Roger Moore would wear one in his first outing as 007 in “Live and Let Die,” but for real-life professionals including the UK’s pioneering Royal Navy Clearance Divers the watch would prove a genuine, reliable workhorse.

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