All Watches
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Stock number:This gilt dial Submariner 5513 from 1965 was sent to us by a client in early 2014 for verification after he purchased it elsewhere. This is not a service we normally provide, but we were delighted to confirm that he had bought a good watch ! Note that all such gilt dial Subs will have the depth rating presented in the earlier style, with metres defined before feet.
NOT for sale
Stock number:Rarely does our collecting direction turn from the enlightened path that is old Rolex tool watches, but we could make an exception for a 1970 Tudor 7031/0 chronograph with a dial in the condition of this one ! Would we wear it ? No, but we can appreciate it for what is. For fellow geeks ( if you are reading this page, it may be time to face facts ), the movement is a 7734 calibre and the case number is in the 756xxx range.
NOT for sale
Stock number:This rare Rolex 3525 chronograph in stainless steel belongs to a charming client of Miltons and has been in his family since the time of WWII. We have been advising him about the watch since 2008! Many similar watches were supplied to allied POWs directly from Rolex; the company’s founder Hans Wilsdorf insisted these officers did not pay for their watches until the war was over, but apparently was not let down by any!
NOT for sale
Stock number:Such is Miltons’ reputation for its specialist knowledge of Rolex watches that a number of national police forces and criminal asset recovery bodies often ask us for expert opinion. This small scan formed part of a detailed report we wrote recently about an “18ct gold Rolex Day-Date model 18238” which comprised some genuine parts but also had a full diamond bezel and diamond-set bracelet which had never seen the inside of a Rolex factory. Such information can be vital for the police, courts and other bodies, so that they may establish the true value of a criminal’s assets or confiscated property. Albeit in gold of some purity, this was quite a poor quality fake component. A well-defined image of Minerva’s head should form part of the Swiss hallmark on a genuine Rolex clasp from this era…..not a cartoon stamp of Ena Sharples!
NOT for sale
Stock number:The interior of the case-back of this old Rolex Submariner can tell us much. Clearly it is from a 5508 model, but we can also see that it was manufactured in “III.1958” which means the third quarter of 1958. Sale to the public might commonly be at least a year or two later than this. Case-backs were marked with such date stamps from the 1950s until the mid-1970s, though for most of these years a two digit year-code was used, such that a “I.72” case-back was made in the first three months of 1972. The other, hand-made scribings are service marks which can themselves be decoded. LON 1/80 92488 shows a watch visited the service division of Rolex UK in January 1980 and the job number was 92488. At Miltons we maintain an extensive database of these service dates and numbers, which prove very useful in cross-referencing watches and service histories of vintage Rolex models.
NOT for sale
Stock number:In 2014 we were very pleased to add this late 1950s Rolex Submariner to Miltons’ special selection. The diver’s model had been evolving quickly since its launch in 1954 and this 5508 version featured the 1530 calibre movement which would then be used in many models for several decades. The 5508 Submariner itself was inevitably destined for a short life and its small winding crown / lack of crown guards would both be addressed in the 5512 of 1959 and the non-chronometer 5513 of 1962. The dial seen here is a Rolex service dial fitted over 20 years ago; the original would have featured gilt (gold colour) text.
Stock number:The anti-magnetic Rolex Milgauss was re-introduced a few years ago in three variants. This is the 116400 GV which features a unique green synthetic sapphire crystal. One normally sees it with the dark dial underneath but we thought clients of Miltons might like to see what the glass looks like without such background interference.
NOT for sale
Stock number:In early 2015 we were delighted to purchase this 1978 Sea-Dweller model 1665, fitted with what collectors term the “Mark 1” dial and coming with its original chronometer certificate. The Sea-Dweller was designed for saturation diving as part of an extraordinary co-operation between Rolex and the French diving company Comex which continued for many decades thereafter. Earlier versions had red writing on the dial but a “Great White” 1665 like this is also highly sought after.
Stock number: Dials for 3155 calibre Day-Date models.Miltons keep an extensive stock of Rolex parts worth over six-figures in its own right (often sourced from Rolex agents who lost their franchises, or needed to raise some money quickly back in the days when parts were supplied more freely). We usually keep these parts for our own, exclusive use but it is worth showing here the selection of dials we have at the time of writing which we would be prepared to fit into a white gold or platinum Day-Date.
Stock number:Here at Miltons we can’t be arbiters of taste, but we do enjoy spotting what’s right and what’s not. This 18ct Rolex Daytona offered to us in July 2015 looks like a 116598RBOW “Rainbow” model……but it’s not. The coloured stone bezel was not made by Rolex, nor was the dial. Those sub-dials should have the gold-crystal effect, not the camouflage finish they do here. Most obvious of all, the model reference 116528 confirms that this watch left Geneva with a plain gold bezel. A genuine Rolex at heart, but it has had third party work of arguable value / detriment carried out on it. Out of interest, we mentioned this watch to one of our favourite Rolex main agents who confirmed that the genuine coloured bezel costs so much to make because, on average, seven baguette-cut gem-stones out of every ten break before being successfully fitted into place. I’ll not wear mine for dry stone walling then.
NOT for sale
Stock number: 12-38-039Stainless steel Rolex GMT-Master II model 16710 T with black dial, blue / red bezel insert and Oysterlock 78790A bracelet. This superb Z068xxxx case-number watch with 3185 calibre movement is from the last year of production and comes with Rolex boxes, GMT-Master booklet, red swing-tag and UK papers from Mappin & Webb in Glasgow dated May 2007. Please note that it has the desirable “stick” dial, where the number “II” after GMT-Master is denoted by two straight lines rather than a serif-ed or roman style of numeral. We have had it serviced by a Rolex-trained watchmaker in Summer 2015. It is in generally excellent condition, our only comment being that the case-back / bottom edge of the case-side below nine o’clock looks as if it has been polished to minimise a slight bump. The fatter, NEW equivalent GMT-Master is now £5,600 but this earlier, less bulky and more colourful model has an army of followers who have chased prices ever higher since it was discontinued. Available from the new Miltons store at 36 Borough Pavement, Birkenhead.
SOLD
Stock number:Collectors of Rolex watches appreciate more than anything the small differences found between one type of dial and another. The Daytona Cosmograph 1652x series was manufactured for about twelve years from 1988, but this first version of their dials is distinctive. Note the so-called “floating Cosmograph,” that word being conspicuously orphaned below the lines of text which it soon rose to join in the next (and all later) versions. Did you also notice that the “6” in the lowest sub-dial is inverted, so that it looks like a “9”?
Stock number:The Rolex Air-King line had a long and sometimes varied history, but for the last twenty years it has simply been the entry-level model in steel (or steel and white metal). Finally, in 2015 it has been phased out altogether and replaced by less characterful Oyster Perpetual models. To celebrate its passing, here is a picture of an unusual variant which crossed our path : a bicolour version! This is in fact a 5501 model with 9-million case number and 1520 calibre movement. You won’t see many of these, but it is not the only odd Air-King. Have you seen an Air-King-Date, or a Domino’s Pizza Air-King?
NOT for sale
Stock number: FAKE ! FAKE ! FAKE !It is frustrating that we are often asked to make an offer to buy an enquirer’s “Rolex” that is, in fact, patently FAKE. The real version of this watch costs over £50,000 new – but this is NOT a genuine 116506. Even our cleaning lady noted that the sub-dials are impossibly positioned for a 4130 calibre movement, adding correctly that “Those indices are clearly wrong, too.” Had she spotted the incorrect coronet, the low “6” on the hour sub-dial or some of the more subtle failures evident here, we might have been impressed.
NOT for sale
Stock number:This mid-1970s Sea-Dweller model 1665 originally had one of the rare “double red” dials, as recalled by its owner when selling it to us. This is consistent with its 4-million case number and the straight text of “ROLEX” across the case-back. In 2004 it enjoyed a service by Rolex UK and at that time was fitted with this rather rare, luminova service dial with all-white text. Note the single word “SWISS” at the bottom of the dial, rather than the “SWISS – T < 25” seen on earlier dials on which tritium was the luminous material.
NOT for sale
Stock number: 22-53-005The Rolex 5513 Submariner existed in many forms from 1962 until about 1990. This is one of the earliest and rarest – with significant individual history. Note the early, pointed crown guards, the gilt text on the dial, the small silver underline and “double Swiss” anomaly at the bottom of the dial. This particular, early 1960s watch was provided for one of the Challengers in the Americas Cup sailing races. Rolex realised long ago that associating their watches with the very best in any field is a sound marketing tactic! Click on the pictures to see the very rare dial features in close-up.
NOT for sale